by Josef Kleffman, master cutter and tailor of Timeless Tailoring
Kleffman specializes in traditional bespoke tailoring—a precise, handcrafted process—to create quality, custom clothing. He details his technique below.
Timeless Tailoring bespoke suits can never be duplicated. More than 40 measurements are taken for each order. A paper pattern is hand-designed reflecting style, shape and aesthetic, laid out on the fabric, and cut out. Each garment is hand-cut in our own shop with meticulous attention toward posture, shoulder slope, fit and comfort. Only through this age-old method can every aspect of the client’s shape and size be incorporated. Each pattern is refined and adjusted throughout the course of multiple fittings and permanently stored for future re-ordering. Inlays are added as part of the tailoring process, allowing the wearer to return the garment in the future for any necessary alterations.
Our suits will literally open doors for you in many ways, whether it is that big contract signed, the dream job you always wanted, or the person of your dreams saying yes to your proposal of marriage. Timeless Tailoring doesn’t just sell bespoken suits, we sell confidence and opportunity. Our approach is decidedly “old fashioned” – no offshore production or Internet guesswork. Instead, we offer the sensible advice of seasoned clothing professionals and authentic, quality workmanship.
Everything starts with the fabric. Our shop will always carry a small and varied supply of fabric; however, the multitude of online options to available to view and purchase allows us to lower overhead costs and pass along those savings to you, the customer. All fabrics used by Timeless Tailoring are made in either England or Italy.
During the manufacturing process there will be at least three fittings of the garment for the client. Timeless Tailoring accommodates a client’s schedule by meeting at a time and place of the client’s choosing, even after business hours or on weekends.
The garment is in its rawest form and basted together with simple thread, fitted with the chest canvas, balanced and shaped – critical steps toward the perfect fit. Important details such as lapel shape, shoulder width and jacket length can be addressed and adjusted. Every element of the garment: shoulders, collar, sleeves, pocket placement etc., is addressed at this point. After the first fitting, corrections are noted and transferred to the card pattern.
The garment has taken shape, pockets have been added, linings put in, and the sleeves and undercollar basted in place. Trousers and vest are ready for fitting and any alterations.
Final shaping and adjustments are made to sleeves, trousers and waist. The final sizing is recorded back to the original paper pattern to be the basis for future orders.
Button-holes are meticulously hand sewn with silk threads and all linings and hems are completed. Genuine horn buttons are used, and all seams are carefully finished to withstand the rigors of daily wear, seasonal weather and business travel.
The finished product is a well-tailored garment that is every bit as serious as its owner, designed for you and you alone. PS
For more information about Timeless Tailoring, find them on Facebook or visit timelesstailoring.wix.com/tailor.
Submitted by bweimer on